23 July 2009

The beautiful land called Wales part two

Oops! the blog accidently posted. So here's the rest of Wales. I left towards Harlech, to the south, or so I thought. Signs all over Europe often, usually, do NOT have the direction on them. I followed what I thought was south, no sun to follow, and went through 15 beautiful miles of wild, goegeous North Wales. The hills rolled and drifted and rose, and there were sheep, hedgerows, trees, incredible beauty. When I realized the error of my direction, I turned around and saw what it looked like in the rear view mirror. I soon came to a mountain pass, which rose higher and higher, and I pushed....and pushed....my steady Koga up over the mountain. Whew, what a place. I came into a town named Flestniog, where slate is mied and used in all the buildings. The main street of town is built, literally, against the mountain, the raw Cambrian mountain of rock. Immense!
So on to Harlech, where I had Chinese food (hey we eat Chinese in Missoula, why not Wales?) and slept like a baby in the dunes of sand behind a church and next to the sea. The wind blew through the night, and I thought the people buried in the nearby graves were visiting me. I awoke early, 5am to be exact, because I'd accidently set my watch over to Montana time. Oops! So after breakfast, and walking on the beach, I visited Harlech Castle, which is a World Heritage Site. Very impressive, google it.
I travel south through Barmouth and other lovely Welsh towns, into Tywyn for a late lunch, after more rain and hills. At the Cambrian Cafe, the owners are eating, and ask What would I like? I said, I haven't had a burger since I got to Europe, so how about your Welsh beef burger? One of the men says, "He's just eating the last one" and points to the other owner. I said, Okay, then the Welsh pork burger with crab apple jelly. He says, "I'm eating the last one. We have to eat what we have before we lose it. How about a roast dinne3r, all the fixins, four pounds?" Deal!! Feed me, I'm hungry!! The food was great, and I tried mint sauce, a mint vinegar sauce for the roast, great stuff.
I pedaled and pushed on til I reached Aberystwyth just before 11pm. I could see the ocean as I topped the hill, and sped down it and up into a University town with 8000students. I walked up the last of the hill, going towards the ocean, where I figured I could camp. I walked thru the ruins of a castle, and as the wind blew, figured I was better off here. So, I slept in the castle ruins, above the ocean, with the wind blowing 'round me and gently lifting at my tent thru the night.
In the morning, 2 workers came to get supplies for repair to a monument, and, altho 8feet away from me, acted as tho I wasn' there! I walked 2 blocks and came to a bike shop, where for 10 quid, ($16.50) I had a full tuneup and check on my bike. I had gone over a thousand miles, and Andy said it's an excellent strong good bike, take it home, you'll never find one in the states. He also said the castle is 700 years old, and very safe for camping. I set up my train for York, and went swimming in Cardigan Bay. The undertow and backcurrent is so strong, it came in and knocked me back over, and my feet went up in the air! When I changed my suit gravel fell out- oops! The water was great and is technically part of the Irish Sea. I learned this from Colin, a man who bought me coffee and toured me through town and above the city, where the tram train runs. He took me to the National Library of Wales, and showed me many incredible views of the landscape and Aberyswyth. And then it was off to England, with the wild landscapes of Wales forever in my mind and heart.

4 comments:

  1. Beautiful!
    I cannot WAIT to see pictures!

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  2. i can't imagine your campsites... dunes on the beach and castle ruins. sounds so peaceful. what did you dream about?

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  3. Pictures would be great, I bet. Would have loved to walk thru castles, sleep on the beach. What an adventure to remember! Your angel is with you and guiding you. Love always, Lynda

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  4. Here I am again stalking your interesting blog! Glad to hear something from you. Been spending my short breaks in wales and so far, I'm having fun.

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